Gradisca: Warm Welcome & Good Food Overshadowed by...The Bill

Restaurant Name: Gradisca
Restaurant Location: 126 W. 13th Street, New York

Gradisca has been recommended to me many times from many sources, so it was with some excitement that I finally headed to the Village last Friday night to investigate its claims to greatness.

The first mark in the favor of this tucked-away little place was the genuinely warm welcome and great service we received.



We were given our pick of seats (even on a Friday night, the place never quite filled up), were tucked in with warm words and cold drinks, and were generally treated like old friends. As the evening progressed, the flow and rhythm of the arrival and departure of menus, drinks, and dishes was well-timed.

The food, also, was of sufficient quality, inventiveness, and flavor to allow the relaxation and comfort that derive from knowing you will be well-tended, satisfied (but not, I am sad to say, dazzled).

For our meal, I selected two choices from the appetizer list - requesting the Sashimi-grade Yellowfin Tuna Tartare with Avocado Mousse be served as my appetizer (a huge portion of glisteningly fresh tuna decked out with avocados and just the right dash of lemon). My husband went for the Prosciutto di Parma Gran Riserva served with Lardo Pesto and Fresh Tile-Baked Flat Buns. Each individual element of this dish was delectable, but none went especially well together.

For dinner, I had another appetizer, the Filet Mignon Carpaccio with Summer Black Truffle Cream Sauce. It was quite good (the presentation left a little to be desired, but the taste -- if you love truffles -- was nice). But, I had erred. Ordering two appetizers was not the problem--the portions were large enough to suffice. But I had ordered two *cold* appetizers. I couldn't help but regret my choice as I watched my husband work his way through a piping hot bowl of Fresh Cut Egg Pappardelle with Hand-Ground Lamb Ragu (very good but lacking in the spark needed to set it apart from the other lamb ragus of the world).

Dessert we shared -- Warm Flourless Dark Chocolate Cake with a Vanilla Cream. The small cake was the most like a dense fudge pudding of any of the ubiquitous "molten chocolate desserts" I've tried (perhaps too much?). The creme anglaise pool around it was a nice counterpoint, but the chocolate was so intense that it really did overwhelm everything else.

In all, we enjoyed this twinkling, cozy place and were happy to eat their well-prepared food....but not, I think, for the price. Gradisca serves great neighborhood fare (maybe even excellent for a local spot), but it is charging unreasonably high prices--the prices of a destination restaurant.

Our total bill was about $140 (this was, mind you, without wine...plus, I ordered two apps instead of an app and an entree and we shared dessert) and it should have been closer to $90-100. This may sound nit-picky, but in a city that offers such a wide array of choices, there is no sense in paying more when you can have the same quality of food for less. I suspect that if Gradisca charged just a little less for each item on their menu they would have no trouble filling all their charmingly rickety tables.

Maybe as the recession wears on, Gradisca will do just that and we will return.

Surprisingly Good Mexican at Barrio

Restaurant Name: Barrio
Restaurant Location: 210 7th Avenue, Park Slope, Brooklyn



Our neighborhood has a glut of Mexican restaurants. Frankly, most of them are sub-par (think bland, flavorless, uninspired gobs of gooey beans and cheese). Thus, we had put off trying Barrio, assuming it would fall in line with what he had already experienced.

Well...you know what they say about assuming things...and they're right. Barrio was an unexpected pleasure of homemade sauces, authentic flavors, fresh seafood, and tender braised meats.

We started with the fresh guacamole--a swirl of tiny bits of tomato, chunks of avocado, and just the right hint of lime.

Thinking to get something small, I ordered one of their appetizers for my dinner: three soft taquitos. They have a variety of intriguing flavors to choose from and I settled on the braised short ribs with onion, cilantro, radish, and crema. They are served in warm, soft flour tortillas (heaped so full they are almost hard to pick up and eat) and with homemade chili sauces ranging from mild to burn-your-taste-buds-off. It was more than I could finish.

My husband ordered the Yucatan shrimp, which are sauted with chilies and served on a bed of rice flavored with coconut milk and studded with pickled onions and calamari. The dish was inventive, fresh, and flavorful -- the last thing we had expected from this place.

I look forward to a return visit to try their tempting cocktails, sweet plantain empanadas, roasted pork shoulder, carnitas, and shrimp enchiladas.

Isn't it lovely when your expectations are defied?
I certainly think so.

Bon Appetit!

Saravana Bhavan -- Dosa Heaven

Restaurant Name: Saravana Bhavan
Restaurant Location: 81 Lexington Avenue, New York

Finding good, authentic Indian food in restaurants in the US can be a challenge--especially if your mother-in-law is an amazing Indian cook. So, every time we try a new place, our hearts are braced for what seems to be the inevitable disappointment.

Thus, imagine our delight to discover Saravana Bhavan. This South Indian eatery is the real deal -- great, authentic, hot, and fast. Their specialty is dosas (thin crepes typically stuffed with mixture of potatoes and spices and served with sambar and chutneys) and they have a really extensive menu of them, ranging from traditional masala dosas to much more exotic varieties.

One that that we tried was an unusual dried fruit and nut dosa, seen here:


It was delicate and the sweetness of the fruit set off the salty element of the nuts. It was a singular taste experience.

The classic Masala dosa was also spot on (pictured here):


If you are looking for a casual, authentic south Indian culinary experience, Saravana Bhavan is the perfect spot.

They don't take reservations, but if you arrive before 7/7:30pm you should have very little wait.

For three courses (we shared appetizers and a dessert), the total was $24 per person (tip included).

The Exquisite Le Bernardin

Restaurant Name: Le Bernardin
Restaurant Location: 155 W. 51st Street, New York



In planning the dinner to celebrate our first year of married life, my husband and I--after great deliberation and no small amount of trepidation--finally settled on Eric Ripert's Le Bernardin. I say deliberation because, of course, New York has many top shelf restaurants, and trepidation because, naturally, when one is picking up a hefty tab....one does not want to be disappointed.

And, thankfully, we chose incredibly well. No disappointment in sight.

So, right to the food. 99% of Ripert's menu is focused around seafood. I am personally one of those eaters who tends to be wary of seafood, particularly at very fancy restaurants, because (let's be honest) its usually really scary (think Sea Urchin Foam on Jellyfish). This is not the case at Le Bernardin. The emphasis is on showcasing pure, beautiful fish and shellfish by using the freshest, best quality ingredients and applying embellishment only as needed (rather than for show). The result is mouthwatering.

It is also extremely impressive, I might add, for a restaurant to focus exclusively on a single type of protein yet still have each course taste wildly different. At no point during the many courses of fish and shellfish did I think: "hmmm, more seafood, eh?"

This was accomplished through the use of flavors from diverse cuisines (think India, China, Japan, and so on) that were shaped and applied through the incomparable culinary techniques of France.

Each dish was different and exquisite, with many layers of flavor marrying together perfectly.

Example: our amuse bouche was a layered parfait of avocado (with a hint of spiciness), crab salad (with just the right touch of lemon), and potato foam (the balancing richness and sweetness). Taken together, the three (individually perfect) portions of the parfait created a fourth wonderful flavor.

We settled on the Le Bernardin Tasting Menu (7 courses) -- other options included a rather complicated set of choices off the regular dinner menu (4 courses) and a 9 course Chef's Tasting Menu.

After the amuse bouche we were treated to Kampachi Tartare, which was flavored (almost too strongly, in my opinion) with citrus and topped with marinated Japanese cucumbers. This was served with puffed rice crisps, which made a nice palate cleanser. This dish was beautiful but the citrus overpowered the raw tuna just a little bit.

The Kampachi was followed by a perfectly cooked Charred Octopus (they slowly braised the octopus and then gave it a quick sear on the grill) that was topped with a salsa of Fermented Black Beans. Tiny, delicate slices of white peach adorned the octopus as well and all was presented with a Sauce Vierge made of squid ink and miso Vinaigrette. This dish was gorgeous to look at and a true pleasure to eat. The octopus (so often the victim of overcooking) was done perfectly and the marriage of the black bean salsa with the sweetness of the peaches was genius.

Next we enjoyed a sourdough bread crusted Red Snapper. This was presented with three tiny timbales of zucchini-mint coriander compote and then, at the table, a rich curried citrus broth was poured around the fish.

This dish exhibited very subtle flavors (especially in comparison to the assertive flavors of the previous two dishes), but was no less delicious. The crust was the most crispy I have ever had and the fish was (of course), perfectly cooked. The zucchini-mint compote did not, quite honestly, add anything but color to the presentation, but the curried broth was complex and a wholly new flavor for the palate to enjoy in the progression of the tasting.

The second fish course consisted of of crispy Black Sea Bass perched atop braised celery and swimming in a sinfully good broth of essence of Iberico Ham, Brandy, and green peppercorns. A parsnip custard (rich and awesome with the leftover broth) was served as an accompaniment. There was some rather shameful sopping up of the sauce with bread once the fish and custard were gone -- it was too good to waste.

Then came one of the most amazing fish preparations I have ever had: Escolar (White Tuna) Poached in Extra Virgin Olive Oil, garnished with Sea Beans and Potato Crisps and drizzled with a light Red Wine Bearnaise sauce.

I cannot rave enough. The fish was delicate, tender, succulent, redolent of olive oil (should I go on?) and the bearnaise was so fabulous that I would dive into a barrel of it without a second thought.

Thus ended the savory, seafood courses (but not the tasting!).

As a sort of transition/palate cleanser we were served an artisan Fromage Blanc (produced exclusively for Le Bernardin by the Vermont Butter and Cheese company), with a coulis of local strawberries. This was like eating a tiny, unsweetened cheesecake with the brightest, freshest, strawberry sauce imaginable. Sid did not enjoy the tartness of the dish (preferring sweet with sweet and savory with savory), but I found it very enjoyable.

Our dessert course was the "Hazelnut": a hazelnut Gianduja Parfait served alongside a single, perfect slice of caramelized banana, and a Brown Butter Ice Cream.


And, if this wasn't enough, the kitchen sent out a White Chocolate Passionfruit cheesecake with passionfruit sorbet in special honor of our anniversary (an unexpected and very nice touch).

Dessert was followed by the usual parade of tiny treats -- little bites of tarts, puffs, and jellies, along with tea (and, of course, the bill).

We had skipped the wine pairing in favor of a single bottle to be enjoyed with all the courses. Unless you have a seriously high tolerance, I recommend going this route. It is lighter on the pocketbook but also keeps you from getting so drunk that you don't appreciate the edible art you are being so reverently served. Such carefully tended dishes deserve attention and respect from the diners.

I should also mention that the service here was very well done. A veritable army of servers tend to your needs during your meal (one for wine, one for ordering, one for serving, one for clearing, one for pulling your chair in and out when you get up to visit their beautifully appointed bathrooms, etc.). This can go horribly wrong at lesser restaurants, but the staff at Le Bernardin have it down cold. The dance of servers was flawless and they seemed genuinely happy to see our appreciation and enjoyment of the food. Though the service is certainly formal, it is not stuffy or snooty. The same can be said of the decor, which is beautiful and calming (lots of rich woods, bamboo framing, and beautiful flowers).

For a special evening, I can wholeheartedly endorse Le Bernardin.

Bon Appetit!

Sandwiches!

Working in Manhattan, you can either bring your lunch or pay an arm and a leg for lunch.  I take the former approach.  Bringing a sandwich to work every day can get a bit tiresome and boring.  I just found a site called Scanwiches that provides many mouth watering images of sandwiches along with their ingredients.  It can serve as a point of inspiration for those who might be feeling bored.  One that caught my eye is the homemade Pastrami, lettuce, swiss, mustard and mayo on a hero.  Be careful though, if you stare at that site too long, you'll get hungry!

FYI, today I've got some lemon chicken with arugula and mayonnaise on some gourmet white bread.  I'll try to post some of my more inventive sandwich recipes in the near future.

The Long Silence, Honduras, and Musings on Fried Food

Dear Readers,

I know it has been a long while since I've penned an entry here, and for that I apologize. As some of you know, I have been in Honduras for the last month running an archaeological field school (you can check out our blog here: http://www.padoarchaeology.blogspot.com/)

Given my long interlude south of the border, I thought I'd share some information with the interested reader on Honduran cuisine.

Honduran food is simple and revolves around corn (usually in the form of corn tortillas), beans (usually fried in shortening), and easy to store veggies (such as cabbage, cucumbers, avocados, and tomatoes). Unless hot sauce is added as a garnish, the food is, as a rule, not particularly spicy. Chicken is also a big staple. In fact, one of the most classic Honduran foods is....fried chicken. They marinate it in spices, dredge the pieces lightly in Maseca (corn flour), and then fry the hell out of them in shortening.



Typically served with fried green plantains or fried potatoes, cabbage, and sauce (usually katsup mixed with mayo), this is a dish you'll find served in most rural homes and local restaurants.

Another great Honduran dish featuring chicken (and a favorite of mine) is Tacos de Pollo.



Here the chicken is poached whole with garlic and onions, removed from the carcass, shredded, and mixed with a little tomato sauce, seasonings (commonly including cumin, consume de pollo, lots of salt, and achiote) and some sauted onions and peppers. This mixture is placed inside a homemade corn tortilla that has been colored and flavored with achiote paste. They are rolled and then deep fried. Typically these are served three to a plate with a topping of freshly shredded cabbage and lots of hot sauce.

Similar, but with a twist, are Honduran enchiladas.



These begin with fried corn tortillas enriched with achiote paste. They provide a base on which a mixture of ground beef cooked with spices, onions, and peppers and potatoes is layered. On top of this comes freshly shredded cabbage and a slice of fresh tomato. Sometimes a tomato sauce is spooned on top, sometimes just a dash of hot sauce. Radically different from enchiladas in the States, and (in my opinion) even better!

The other most common Honduran plate is called Plato Tipico (typical plate) and consists of homemade corn tortillas (made by mixing Maseca with water to create a dough, preparing balls of the dough to be flattened in a tortillera and then cooked on a hot comal), refried beans (red or black beans slowly cooked with garlic cloves, mashed, and then fried in plenty of shortening), fresh sliced avocado, and often fried sweet plantains. Garnished with crema (a classic Latin cream that is somewhere between cream cheese and sour cream) and hot sauce, plato tipico is so, so good. I brought a tortillera and comal home with me to attempt to recreate this goodness. After a few trials, I'll be sure to post recipes here.

So, that's a bit about Honduran food! Stay tuned for more reviews and recipes now that I'm back in New York!!

Bon Appetit!

Do you dream of Traveling to France for Cooking Classes?

On Rue Tatin West Vashon Island, WA
Two-day class August 20-21, 2009
Evening classes August 21 and 22

Dream of traveling to France to cook?

Well, this summer France is coming to you! Susan Herrmann Loomis of On Rue Tatin, internationally recognized chef and cookbook author, is coming to Vashon Island, WA to share her love of France and her expertise in French cooking through hands-on cooking
classes in the lovely home of Steve and Cindy Stockett on Vashon Island.

Don’t miss this chance as Susan guides you
in the preparation of authentic French dishes, using the finest local and seasonal
ingredients procured just for you. With her focus on French technique and her joy
in the kitchen, a good time will be had by all as you prepare, then sit down to enjoy,
your authentic French meal.

These very special classes, which includes special tastings, hands-on classes with meals and more is filling up quickly, so please enroll now.

Call toll free: 1.866.369.8073 or email: cookingclasses@onruetatin.com or sign up here
Cost is $500 USD per person per two day class (Aug 20-21); fee includes cooking
classes, instruction and multi-course meals, with cheeses and wines.
Also available - evening classes August 21 OR 22, $250 per person per class evening class with tastings, followed by a five course meal.

Menus for each class will be different, so if you’d like to sign up for all four, you'll learn something new each time!

As always, each class will focus on French technique, as well as the finest local ingredients. We will do tastings of specialty ingredients, and will taste both local and French wines, as well as artisanally made cheeses.


ABOUT SUSAN HERRMANN LOOMIS - As an internationally-recognized expert on food, journalist, and trained chef, Susan has a depth of knowledge and an appreciation for the rich traditions around food. Susan believes that learning about cooking and food should involve much more than recipes and techniques. She delights in meeting and introducing the personalities and customs behind the great cuisines of France, where she has lived for twenty years. Susan is the author of six cookbooks, the most
recent of which is Cooking at Home On Rue Tatin (William Morrow).

The Worst Restaurant in Park Slope?

Restaurant Name: Sotto Voce
Restaurant Location: 225 7th Avenue, Park Slope, Brooklyn

I usually like to post upbeat reviews of places I think worthy of visiting. However, I simply must express my distress about Sotto Voce. Before committing negative little finger-taps to the keyboard, I ate twice at Sotto Voce, just to be sure. I am now sure: this must be the worst restaurant in Park Slope. Yet - it is nearly always crowded. How can this be?

First, the bad: Sotto Voce has terrible service (rude, monosyllabic, indifferent), a filthy interior (think food on the floor, tables akimbo, things slopped onto the table, etc.), and truly terrible food (bland, tasteless, cold). I always try to look for the good things about a restaurant, but I honestly could not find anything positive about this horrible place.

But it never seems to run out of patrons, even as far superior places dwindle and go out of business. Why?

Well, sadly, I think this is because Sotto Voce long ago committed itself to embracing the twin principles of mediocrity and abundance. They ply you with all-you-can drink mimosas and dry, lifeless bread at brunch. They plop fat bowls of greasy pasta and better-made-at-home eggs before you. They let you loll about for hours, never taking your order or bringing your check, and they let your kids throw food on the floor, scream, and generally make a mess. In exchange, they feed you. And, at the end of the day, Sotto Voce proves that for many people, good food just doesn't matter.

It makes me sad that this places thrives while other more ambitious restaurants suffer and fail. But, as my dad always told, me: life just ain't fair.

In sum: if you value fresh, flavorful preparations (or, really, even warm ones) and desire at least moderately sentient service, avoid Sotto Voce like the plague.

James - Fresh and Inventive (mostly)

Restaurant Name: James
Location: 605 Carleton Avenue (Prospect Heights), Brooklyn, NY



James, a relatively new spot in Brooklyn, offers a smallish seasonal menu of what I guess I would call New American (they call it "European-influenced American"). I've eaten here twice and am now satisfied that James has quality offerings and is worthy of repeat visits.

The menu has about 6-7 offerings each for appetizers, entrees, and desserts. There is a nice range of vegetarian, fish, and meat choices and most are creatively but simply prepared.

I've sampled the Sauteed Skate with Capers in a Sherry-reduction (the skate was perfectly cooked but its delicate flavor was slightly overwhelmed by the assertive sherry reduction) and I've also had the Pressed Young Chicken with Napa Cabbage and Morels (the chicken was amazingly tender and flavorful - no mean feat with breast meat - and paired beautifully with the cabbage, but the morels seemed to re-hydrated, which was a little disappointing for a spring dish). My conclusions here are that most entrees are good but may have one or two off-notes.

Of the appetizer's I've tried, they seem more hit-and-miss dish by dish. I've tried the North Fork Asparagus Salad with Goat Cheese Fondue (absolutely amazing - the silky fondue drizzled over the perfectly cooked asparagus was indulgent and decadent) and the Seared East Coast Tuna with Shaved Fennel (nothing was off, but nothing jumped out and said EAT MORE to me either - just a bit blah).

For desserts, I've only sampled one: the Fresh Berry Crostada. It was great (in fact, I've only had that one because I ordered it again the second time I ate there...I know, I know, not good reviewer behavior, but what can I say, it was great).

The wine offerings are nice here too, with good selections from both the bottle and by the glass.

James is a small, elegant space and does not take reservations for parties of less than 6 people. You should have no trouble getting a table before 7pm, but on weekend nights there might be a good long wait...but one that is worth it.

Bon Appetit!

Maui Update V (the Final Update!)

Well, our last few days in Maui were just as great as all the ones that came before! Here's the final update (to infinity, and beyond!).

In this review: Kama'ole Beach I in Kihei, Big Beach, and Makena Beach in south Maui; also "Hobo Packs" (recipe), Iao Valley, Hookipia Overlook, and Mama's Fish House.

Thursday, May 21st



After the long drive to Hana yesterday, we took all day today to explore the wonderful beaches of south Maui. Our first stop (bright an early) was Kama'ole Beach I (there are three so-named beaches) in Kihei. Since this beach is part of a public park, it has restrooms (yay!) and a lifeguard. Its a great beach, with some of the softest, finest sand of any we visited. The beach is also shallow quite a way out into the surf, so its good for timid swimmers, and the north end has a nice rocky outcropping for snorkelers.




After lunch (at the Maui Taco chain - adequate fuel for the hungry body), we drove even further south...in fact, as far south as you can go, to "Big Beach."



Once over-run by live-in hippies, this beach has since been reclaimed by the state and is now a pristine, wild spot at the edge of the world. Beautiful vistas out to Molokini crater, big waves, and long stretches of golden sand characterize Big Beach. Hard to beat.



Our final stop was Makena beach (this beach has several names, we are referring to the one in front of the Maui Prince Hotel). This is a cute little curving bay, nice and protected. There was great snorkeling at the south end (and - a rarity - shade!) and good swimming in the middle. Very pleasant.

For dinner, we headed up the grill and reprised our steak dinner from a few nights ago - this time with a favorite grill dish of ours: "hobo packs". The idea here is to take some nice Yukon Gold potatoes, cut them into bite sized pieces, toss them with lardons and sweet onion (we used Maui onions), salt, pepper, and a touch of olive oil (the bacon will make nearly enough oil on its own). Wrap these up in neat little tinfoil packages and put them in the coals. The end result is a nice individual serving size of roasty, toasty, caramelized goodness (if you are in a rush, it can help to precook the potatoes, and par-cook the bacon and onions).



Friday, May 22nd

Our last day was not one we planned to squander! Our flight left at 9pm at night, so we squeezed in a FULL day of fun. The morning was spent back at good old Ka'anapali Beach, lunch was leftovers from Honokoawai Okazuya deli (see the previous update for a review).



We also visited the Hyatt resort in Ka'anapali - they have a virtual menagerie of exotic birds and plants on their grounds, which makes a fun tour.



A visit to the Iao Valley rounded out our afternoon. This beautiful spot is nestled in the west Maui mountains and has a short, easy nature trail to an overlook point.

Our Big Event, foodwise, today was dinner at Mama's Fish House (located in central Maui, about 1 mile outside of Paia).



Since we were a bit early for our reservation, we drove another mile down the road to Hookipia overlook. This windy spot is a favorite with surfers, and a beautiful place to watch the afternoon sun on the water.




Dinner at Mama's was an apt finale to our wonderful trip. It was probably the best meal we had on-island (vying with Merrimans). When we first arrived at the restaurant, I have to admit that I was pretty skeptical that it would live up to my expectations. Everyone (friends, strangers, internet reviews, guidebook reviews) raved that this place was The Best. How could it really be so great? Most other places on Maui are overpriced and underwhelming, and Mama's had that "look" that suggested a gimmick to me (parrots in the entryway, canoes to pose around for photos on the beach, etc.).

But I was oh-so wrong. Mama's did more than live up to my expectations, it exceeded them. Fish is the thing here, so I wouldn't bother ordering anything else (though I'm sure their other offerings are good). All the fish and seafood on their menu is caught locally and the same day it is served. They even list the fisherman and boat that hauled in the catch on the menu. So, you really can't get it too much fresher than this. Mama's was the only fine dining establishment we visited that began our meal with an amuse bouche - in this case a very fine asparagus soup served in a tiny little sake cup. It boded well, and was followed by a warm loaf of house-made honey poppyseed bread with sweet cream butter.



For our starter, we chose to share their special offering for the evening - Moi Poke. Moi (Hawaiian kingfish) is not something I've ever tried before. I now wish it was possible to eat it raw for every meal for the rest of my life. It was Awe-Some. Simply prepared with good sea salt, lots of onion, and some dried seaweed, this stuff was addictive, melt-on-your-tongue goodness. The taro and sweet potato crisps were the perfect edible silverware.



For dinner, Sid had the house special: Mahi Mahi caught on the north shore, stuffed with local lobster and crab, baked in a macadamia nut crust, and topped with a lobster tail. It was as fresh as can be and alluringly subtly sweet from the crab and lobster. Delicious.



I had the Deep-water Ahi (grilled with a peppercorn crust) served with a Hamaka mushroom basil sauce atop sweet potato-taro mash. The strongly flavored sauce was great with the tender Ahi and the mash was really addictively good. When the server told me the chef preferred to cook this dish medium rather than rare or medium rare, I was a little nervous. But I need not have worried - it was just right with the assertive sauce.



For dessert (which I figured would be an overpriced afterthought) we shared the incomparably good "Black Pearl", which was a glistening chocolate mousse filled with Lilikoi cream nestled into a cookie shaped like an oyster shell. Ostentatiously beautiful presentation was matched by the rich flavors and interesting (in a good way) pairing of the chocolate and Lilikoi. A perfect end to a perfect meal.

It was with both heavy hearts and stomachs that we made our way, weeping oh-so-softly, to the Kahuli Airport and off into the night.

Aloha and Mahalo for reading about our trip! I hope the reviews are helpful!

Maui Update IV

Welcome to our fourth update from Maui!

In this review: Napili Beach, Honokowai Okazuya deli, Merriman's Restaurant, Moana Bakery and Cafe in Paia, Ka'eleku Caverns, Wai'anapanapa State Park, Nahiku Marketplace Taco stand, and the Flatbread Pizza Co. in Paia.

Tuesday, May 19th

After so many travels and travails on Monday (see Maui Update III), we decided to take a full-on beach day today.



In the morning we visited West Maui's Napili Beach (up along the northern part of the island near Kapaula Bay). This sweet little bay is really beautiful and we had a great time lolling about despite the high surf (which made swimming and snorkeling a no-go zone).


For lunch, we checked out the Honokowai Okazuya deli. A tiny little hole-in-the-wall tucked into a strip mall near our condo, this place had seriously tasty take-out. The chef reportedly cut his teeth at Nick's Fish Market (see Maui Update III) and Mama's Fish House before opening his own down-to-earth spot serving local mixed plate style food.



For about $30 bucks we got more food than we could possibly eat - Korean BBQ Chicken with rice and stir-fried veggies and Mahi Mahi with lemon caper sauce and rice. The food was high on flavor (the Mahi Mahi did *not* look appealing but it tasted great. The fish was tender and fresh and the sauce was thick with mushrooms and great lemony flavor). Washed down with sodas on our lanai, this made a nice break from the pricey resort offerings.

After lunch we headed back to Ka'anapali Beach. Fast becoming our favorite all-around beach spot, Ka'anapali offers good swimming, fair to good snorkeling (at Black Rock), proximity to shops and restrooms (always key!), and accessibility to poolside bars serving up fruity drinks (essential!).



Sid snorkeled his heart out (nearly a pro after our great lesson with Evelyn of Snorkel Maui - see Maui Update III). Miranda snoozed in the sun. Perfect afternoon!

Dinner tonight was at Merrimans. Peter Merriman - whose restaurants are a staple in fine dining on some of Hawaii's other islands - has finally opened a Maui outpost. Its up in Kapalua, not far from the Ritz Carlton. We can't recommend it highly enough. The food was innovative and unbelievably good, the view is breathtaking, and the service is top notch.



For starters, Miranda had the Ahi Poke. Poke is a traditional Hawaiian seafood preparation (usually done with tuna) in which raw tuna is tossed with seaweed, onions, salt, etc. Its incredibly fresh - sort of an island version of tuna tartare. Merriman's take on this dish was stupendously good (among the very best of any dish we had while in Maui). It was served with sweet potato crisps and the presentation resembled coral - both beautiful and delicious.



Sid's starter was more innovative and, frankly, less successful. He ordered the locally caught prawns. They had been prepared sous vide with vanilla bean and then served with avocado, jalapeno, and citrus fruits. The texture of the shrimp was amazing - because of the sous vide preparation they were perfectly done, tender, and delicious. However, including the vanilla bean in the sous vide package resulted in an overwhelming (and too sweet) vanilla flavor that was just too strong for the tender prawns and the less assertive accompaniments. The dish wasn't bad, it just wasn't executed as well as it might have been. But, we give them credit for imagination!



Miranda's entree was the best: a pork chop with blue prawns. Both were cooked and flavored well, but the real winning part of this dish was the sweet potato gnocchi that served as a bed for the meat. These were from a purple sweet potato, so they were gorgeous, and they were just so tender and pillow-like. It was love.

For dessert, we enjoyed a Chocolate Purse with Tahitian Vanilla Bean Ice Cream (Sid was in heaven) and a Salted Caramel Cheesecake. Both were excellent and presented beautifully.

We were also extremely impressed with our server here (Colin). He was a very gracious, humorous, and fun guide through our dining experience - there when you needed or wanted him, and fading away when you did not. Really top notch service.



Merriman's was also in a lovely location - perched out on the jutting cliffs of northwest Maui and perfectly situated to watch the sun sink behind the offshore islands. When it got chilly after sunset, they had house shawls on offer. Every touch was perfect. This place was one of the few we ate at that seemed worth the high price tag.

Wednesday, May 20th


Today we decided to brave the fabled Road to Hana. We got up with the sun (not that hard to do when you are used to East Coast time) and drove to the funky, quirky town of Paia (at the start of the long winding road up to Hana). Breakfast here at the Moana Bakery and Cafe may well have been one of the best parts of our day.

This funny little place (part French pastry shop, part diner, and decorated with Roman columns) has a far better breakfast than the vast majority of New York city's myriad brunch spots.



We chowed down on Banana Pancakes and Eggs Sunnyside up with Portuguese sausage, and awesome crispy potatoes.

A great start to the day!

Then we began the long drive up the Hana Highway (its about 40 miles to Hana, but all on seriously narrow, windy roads).



We passed plenty of pretty waterfalls, pools, and coastline vistas, but...in the end...I think we concluded that we are not car-trip people. Give us a destination and an activity!

A few cool things worth mentioning, though:

1. The Ka'eleku Caverns: a massive lava tube that bored its way out to the sea during a long-ago volcanic eruption. A lucky landowner found a passage into the tube on his property and set up a nice underground tour. For $11 a person you get a high powered flashlight and unlimited time to explore this crazy underground world. Highly worthwhile (and SUCH a welcome relief after the long road).



2. Wai'anapanapa State Park (otherwise known as the Black Sand Beach). Really it would be more accurate to describe this place as the Black Rock Beach, as it is not especially sandy, but this coastline is spectacularly beautiful. After checking out the tiny beach (crawling with tourists), take a hike up along the coast for sweeping, stark vistas.



If you get hungry along the way, stop at the Nahiku Marketplace for Kahula pork tacos. While not gourmet eats, these big hearty soft tacos ($6 each) are dripping with slow-cooked pork, tons of different salsas, and lots of black beans. Also, this is a good excuse to get out of the car!

After finally making it back down to Paia (this is essentially a one-way trip, so you have to turn around drive all the way back - holding your breath as you whip around hairpin turns on a one-lane bridge), we stopped for dinner at the Flatbread Pizza Company. A definite hippy-heaven, this pizza spot has a full-on wood burning oven and uses all natural, organic ingredients. Much as we wanted to like their pizza, it was pretty sparse on toppings and a little dry. Oh well.



With the sun setting before us, we zipped the rest of the way back to the Mahana for a little time in the pool and spa.

Aloha until our next post!