What I Learned at Cooking School

I've always suspected that I'm just about the luckiest girl in the world, but now I know that it's true.

A few weeks ago, my dad invited "On Rue Tatin's" Susan Hermann Loomis to come and give french cooking lessons at our home on Vashon Island, and she agreed. Then he graciously invited me to be one of the lucky participants.


(Photo of Susan and Steve -- still smiling after three busy days!)

So, for three days I not only sliced, diced, poached, and sauteed, but I also helped set-up, break-down, and organize cooking classes. Being on both sides of the cooking school experience was fascinating (if not a *little* tiring), and I learned a few things that I thought I'd share with our readers.

LESSON 1: Mis en place matters.

(a shot of a mis en place set-up):


I have always understood that mis en place (or "putting in place") is a cornerstone of professional cooking, but have frankly always considered it too much effort to fully incorporate into my home kitchen. For those unfamiliar with the concept, mis en place basically refers to:

** first, as a pre-req. to mis en place, you must read the recipe through completely from beginning to end before you do anything else (or, if you are not using a recipe, thinking through all of the ingredients and steps you will follow)

** assembling everything you will need in advance, including tools and ingredients. This means that if the recipe calls for 2 tsp of minced garlic, you set out two cloves of garlic and a good knife for mincing; if it calls for 1 lb of chicken breasts, you get your chicken breasts out, rinse and pat dry, and set them aside on the counter to come to temperature. Essentially, once you are ready to actually begin cooking, everything is ready and at hand. There is no digging through the gadget drawer and cursing because you can't find your peeler. It is already waiting for you, sitting ready next to whatever needs peeling.



Susan prepares for every class by creating stations for each recipe with the mis en place completed, and -- as hosts -- we helped her with set-up. Doing so was sort of a revelation for me. This practice conditions you mentally to cook, refreshing your memory on each step you will take and in what order they should be completed. It also gets you set up to create minimal mess (something I personally struggle with), as everything is ready to go and you won't make the mistake of realizing you need a bigger bowl, another knife, etc.

LESSON 2: Use a small bowl for collecting detritus; keep a side towel tucked into your apron.

Here's a photo of Cindy modeling her side towel (see how handy!):

This wasn't a totally new lesson for me, either, but it also wasn't one I was good about following. And it makes SUCH a big difference. Having a small bowl on the counter to place your onion peels, garlic skins, fruit pits, and so forth not only cuts down on mess on the counter, but also eliminates messy handles on the door to the garbage bin :)

The same goes for the side towel. Now, rather than hunting for something to wipe messy fingers on, you've got a towel strapped to your apron. Ditto with hunting around for pot holders; as long as your side towel is relatively dry, you can use it to grab hot pan handles and lids. It also makes a great place to wipe off dirty knives.

LESSON 3: Flavor does not have to mean fat. French food does not have to mean butter.

Okay, this one was new for me. I am a big proponent of cooking with butter, cream, butter, cream, butter, cream (you get the idea). Most of the dishes Susan had us prepare, however, were pretty damn healthy. But they were also really flavorful. This was, I think, due to the proper and creative use of ingredients like radishes, fennel, lime zest, mustard, and vinegars.

She also used a lot of oils that I had previously admired and wondered about on the grocery shelves, but never used. Almond oil dressed up steamed green beans, walnut oil and pumpkin seed oil gave richness and flavor to salad dressings. She also achieved a lot of flavor through the use of more flavorful meats - such as gamier birds and animals like Guinea Hen and Rabbit.



LESSON 4: Use whatever you can from your own garden, even if that garden is just a few pots on the window sill.



In particular, fresh lettuces -- even quite small bunches of them -- taste a thousand times better than what you get at the store and will (if properly thinned) grow and grow all summer. Herbs, many of which you can continue to grow into winter indoors, provide much brighter flavors when picked fresh and used immediately (another great tip from Susan: don't mince the herbs until *just* before you plan to use them or they will lose all their flavor).

So, those were a few seemingly little lessons with big, beautiful consequences in the kitchen that I learned at cooking school.

I hope you find them useful.

Here is a parting shot of one of the groups of cooking class participants:


Bon Appetit!

Spring Hill sends out a let-down

Restaurant Name: Spring Hill
Restaurant Location: 4437 California Avenue SW, West Seattle, WA

Well, I have been hearing about Spring Hill from my friends and family in Seattle (see other reviews on this site, in fact) for about two years now. The effusive use of enthusiastic adjectives in their descriptions of the food have long made me sad that I haven't had the opportunity to visit the restaurant. Then, in a recent issue of Food and Wine, Spring Hill was written up as having one of the best new chefs of 2009.

And, finally, this week, I got a chance to eat there. In all fairness, my expectations were high.

I was dining with two other bloggers on this site (Steve and Cindy), both of whom had eaten at--and loved--Spring Hill on many previous occasions.

Dear reader: I am sorry to report this, but the evening we dined at Spring Hill was a lazy night in their kitchen....a disappointment to be sure.

We all started our dinner with some small plates: a Kampachi tartare with salmon roe, a Duck Egg yoke Raviolo, and a serving of Bread and Butter (which, yes, you have to pay for here). Each of these, while tasty, had off-elements. The Kampachi tartare was beautiful, but the chef had missed patches of skin on the underside--a jarring visual and textural element. With the duck egg raviolo, the egg is supposed to be poached and runny but was, unfortunately, set by the time it arrived at the table (despite a specific request for a very runny egg). And the bread was, I am sorry to say it, tough and dry (though the butter was delicious).

A little daunted, we headed into the entrees. I ordered the half Dungeness crab with warm butter and lemon (which was messy as hell, but tasted good, if dull) and Cindy and Steve both ordered the burger.

The Spring Hill burger is $17, so certain expectations are present. It should, for example, be cooked to the ordered temperature. It should be something special, not just another burger. But, it was just another burger and in both cases, overcooked. More disappointment.

I hope very much that this was just an unfortunate off-night at the restaurant rather than a more dire problem (e.g. the place is resting on its laurels, the chef is bored, the staff poorly trained). Given the rave reviews this place has garnered, I'd even be willing to give it another try and hope for better. But, be warned, Spring Hill is teetering.

Seasonal: A German-Austrian Idyll

Restaurant Name: Seasonal
Restaurant Location: 132 W. 58th Street, New York

Seasonal is a newish (open less than 1 year) German-Austrian restaurant. A friend of ours, who just so happens to be German, recommended the place to us, and so on a steamy summer evening we braved the heat with he and his wife to check it out. The restaurant is a small spare space (long and narrow, lots of white), that invites long, delightful meals on its comfy leather chairs or a slow drink at the curving bar.

We were happy to give in to the flow and enjoyed one of the better meals we've had in quite awhile.

To start, our of our party tried the Tomaten-Topfen, a delicate summer salad of Heirloom Tomatoes, Homemade Topfen (a cheese quite similar in taste and texture to fresh mozzarella) and micro basil. Another choice appetizer was the Jakobsmucheln, an arrangement of plump Diver Boat sea scallops perched proudly atop a tangle of red beet tagliatelle (ingenious) served with Maitake mushrooms and fresh horseradish. This dish was as bold as the tomato salad was demure, and both were outstanding in terms of flavor, freshness, and beauty.

For my starter, I ordered the Ziegenkase Salat, a beautiful salad of baby greens dressed with a shallot elderflower dressing, and nestled atop a pumpkin seed crusted round of fresh goat cheese and sweet, salt-baked baby beets. It was summer on a plate and impressive (as were all dishes at Seasonal) in its marriage of disparate flavors into one harmonious dish.

My husband chose a heavier first course, opting for the almost obscenely good Schweinebauch, a dish of pork belly confit (crisp, creamy, and decadent) with braised onion served in a light, flavorful Riesling caraway jus. He had to fend the rest of us off in order to finish.

Though all of these dishes were heavy on flavor (in all cases resulting from a combination of many elements perfectly merged) and richness, the portions were reasonable. I've been to so many restaurants that offer appetizers that -- rather than actually stimulating your appetite and making you eagerly anticipate the next course -- stuff you so full you can't contemplate your entree with anything but dread. Seasonal does an excellent job of portioning correctly so that you can enjoy every last bite of your food.

After a lovely interlude of wine (a lovely Gruner Vetliner) and good conversation, our entrees arrived.

Two of our party chose the Tafelspitz. A gorgeous take on a traditional dish, the Tafelspitz was a perfect cut of Flat Iron steak that had been long poached to perfection and served in an oxtail consommé (yes, it was rich and delicious beyond belief). The dish was served with an impressive assortment of sides and garnishes, including two crisp little potato pancakes, an apple horseradish sauce, a chive sauce, and a side of creamed spinach (the latter being everyone's least favorite item).

I was served the Heilbutt, a beautiful pan-seared halibut (they rolled the fish so that it was artfully presented as a long cylinder) perched atop a bed of roasted onions, sauteed romaine (which sounded awful but was both appetizing in appearance and taste - almost like shredded, sauted Brussel sprouts), and tiny Chanterelle mushrooms. This presentation was lightly sauced with a rich, yet still delicate, bacon-mustard cream sauce. I ate it all.

Though we were extremely full at this point, we couldn't resist ordering one dessert to share around the table. Our choice: the Topfennockerl, a lightly sweet, airy Quark mousse served in quenelles that had been rolled in a fine nut crust. The plate was sauced with a raspberry-Champagne cream sauce and the whole dish was garnished with a fruit compote. This dessert struck all the same notes as the appetizers and entrees: a light, summery feel that was still rich and displayed an impressive complexity of flavors -- not to mention beautiful presentation all around.

I look forward to returning to Seasonal at the first opportunity.

Bon Appetit!

Sheep Station: My New Neighborhood Favorite

Restaurant Name: Sheep Station
Restaurant Location: 149 4th Avenue, Park Slope, Brooklyn



It's been some time since I've walked into a new restaurant and wanted to order literally every item on the menu. So, discovering Sheep Station, an Australian pub in my neighborhood, was a refreshing change of pace.

Part bar and part purveyor of quality comfort food, Sheep Station is billed as a casual, welcoming Australian kitchen and bar. And it is, indeed, all of these things.

Occupying much more space than it initially appears, Sheep Station has its bar front-and-center, with a narrow row of charmingly rickety tables along the opposite wall. The two times I've been in here, most people seem to have congregated at the bar in a merry, noisy slouch of food and drink. Don't head here anticipating a quiet, romantic dinner -- the place is noisy.

They have an extensive list of draft beers as well as a respectable wine list (so both wine and beer drinkers will be content - not always an easy marriage). It appears that there is a larger room in the back, perhaps for private events (I've always eaten at Sheep Station fairly early or on a week-night and there's still been ample seating in the front).

So, on to what you really want to know: Sheep Station makes good grub. Imagine lots of meat--ranging from perfectly grilled lamb chops to a juicy burger adorned with pineapple and an egg (and written up recently in Saveur Magazine)--cooked just right (meaning: actually as you request) and served with thoughtful sides. Imagine tasty wine-poached mussels with a side of very well-executed frites. Imagine poutine that is neither too heavy nor too dainty. Imagine a series of great sandwiches, including a "chook" (chicken) sandwich with plenty of tender breast meat tossed with a curry aoili and guacamole and pillowed between two halves of a big, fluffy kaiser roll.

Now imagine that you could eat all this lovely food--along with a drink--in a relaxed, friendly atmosphere for about $20 bucks a person (most sandwiches and entrees range from about $10-15, with the lamb chops being the big splurge at $19 (well worth it).

I have to say, I'm glad I've discovered Sheep Station -- it's extremely rare in Park Slope to be treated to a restaurant that is of high quality AND has reasonable prices.

Bon Appetit!

Gradisca: Warm Welcome & Good Food Overshadowed by...The Bill

Restaurant Name: Gradisca
Restaurant Location: 126 W. 13th Street, New York

Gradisca has been recommended to me many times from many sources, so it was with some excitement that I finally headed to the Village last Friday night to investigate its claims to greatness.

The first mark in the favor of this tucked-away little place was the genuinely warm welcome and great service we received.



We were given our pick of seats (even on a Friday night, the place never quite filled up), were tucked in with warm words and cold drinks, and were generally treated like old friends. As the evening progressed, the flow and rhythm of the arrival and departure of menus, drinks, and dishes was well-timed.

The food, also, was of sufficient quality, inventiveness, and flavor to allow the relaxation and comfort that derive from knowing you will be well-tended, satisfied (but not, I am sad to say, dazzled).

For our meal, I selected two choices from the appetizer list - requesting the Sashimi-grade Yellowfin Tuna Tartare with Avocado Mousse be served as my appetizer (a huge portion of glisteningly fresh tuna decked out with avocados and just the right dash of lemon). My husband went for the Prosciutto di Parma Gran Riserva served with Lardo Pesto and Fresh Tile-Baked Flat Buns. Each individual element of this dish was delectable, but none went especially well together.

For dinner, I had another appetizer, the Filet Mignon Carpaccio with Summer Black Truffle Cream Sauce. It was quite good (the presentation left a little to be desired, but the taste -- if you love truffles -- was nice). But, I had erred. Ordering two appetizers was not the problem--the portions were large enough to suffice. But I had ordered two *cold* appetizers. I couldn't help but regret my choice as I watched my husband work his way through a piping hot bowl of Fresh Cut Egg Pappardelle with Hand-Ground Lamb Ragu (very good but lacking in the spark needed to set it apart from the other lamb ragus of the world).

Dessert we shared -- Warm Flourless Dark Chocolate Cake with a Vanilla Cream. The small cake was the most like a dense fudge pudding of any of the ubiquitous "molten chocolate desserts" I've tried (perhaps too much?). The creme anglaise pool around it was a nice counterpoint, but the chocolate was so intense that it really did overwhelm everything else.

In all, we enjoyed this twinkling, cozy place and were happy to eat their well-prepared food....but not, I think, for the price. Gradisca serves great neighborhood fare (maybe even excellent for a local spot), but it is charging unreasonably high prices--the prices of a destination restaurant.

Our total bill was about $140 (this was, mind you, without wine...plus, I ordered two apps instead of an app and an entree and we shared dessert) and it should have been closer to $90-100. This may sound nit-picky, but in a city that offers such a wide array of choices, there is no sense in paying more when you can have the same quality of food for less. I suspect that if Gradisca charged just a little less for each item on their menu they would have no trouble filling all their charmingly rickety tables.

Maybe as the recession wears on, Gradisca will do just that and we will return.

Surprisingly Good Mexican at Barrio

Restaurant Name: Barrio
Restaurant Location: 210 7th Avenue, Park Slope, Brooklyn



Our neighborhood has a glut of Mexican restaurants. Frankly, most of them are sub-par (think bland, flavorless, uninspired gobs of gooey beans and cheese). Thus, we had put off trying Barrio, assuming it would fall in line with what he had already experienced.

Well...you know what they say about assuming things...and they're right. Barrio was an unexpected pleasure of homemade sauces, authentic flavors, fresh seafood, and tender braised meats.

We started with the fresh guacamole--a swirl of tiny bits of tomato, chunks of avocado, and just the right hint of lime.

Thinking to get something small, I ordered one of their appetizers for my dinner: three soft taquitos. They have a variety of intriguing flavors to choose from and I settled on the braised short ribs with onion, cilantro, radish, and crema. They are served in warm, soft flour tortillas (heaped so full they are almost hard to pick up and eat) and with homemade chili sauces ranging from mild to burn-your-taste-buds-off. It was more than I could finish.

My husband ordered the Yucatan shrimp, which are sauted with chilies and served on a bed of rice flavored with coconut milk and studded with pickled onions and calamari. The dish was inventive, fresh, and flavorful -- the last thing we had expected from this place.

I look forward to a return visit to try their tempting cocktails, sweet plantain empanadas, roasted pork shoulder, carnitas, and shrimp enchiladas.

Isn't it lovely when your expectations are defied?
I certainly think so.

Bon Appetit!

Saravana Bhavan -- Dosa Heaven

Restaurant Name: Saravana Bhavan
Restaurant Location: 81 Lexington Avenue, New York

Finding good, authentic Indian food in restaurants in the US can be a challenge--especially if your mother-in-law is an amazing Indian cook. So, every time we try a new place, our hearts are braced for what seems to be the inevitable disappointment.

Thus, imagine our delight to discover Saravana Bhavan. This South Indian eatery is the real deal -- great, authentic, hot, and fast. Their specialty is dosas (thin crepes typically stuffed with mixture of potatoes and spices and served with sambar and chutneys) and they have a really extensive menu of them, ranging from traditional masala dosas to much more exotic varieties.

One that that we tried was an unusual dried fruit and nut dosa, seen here:


It was delicate and the sweetness of the fruit set off the salty element of the nuts. It was a singular taste experience.

The classic Masala dosa was also spot on (pictured here):


If you are looking for a casual, authentic south Indian culinary experience, Saravana Bhavan is the perfect spot.

They don't take reservations, but if you arrive before 7/7:30pm you should have very little wait.

For three courses (we shared appetizers and a dessert), the total was $24 per person (tip included).

The Exquisite Le Bernardin

Restaurant Name: Le Bernardin
Restaurant Location: 155 W. 51st Street, New York



In planning the dinner to celebrate our first year of married life, my husband and I--after great deliberation and no small amount of trepidation--finally settled on Eric Ripert's Le Bernardin. I say deliberation because, of course, New York has many top shelf restaurants, and trepidation because, naturally, when one is picking up a hefty tab....one does not want to be disappointed.

And, thankfully, we chose incredibly well. No disappointment in sight.

So, right to the food. 99% of Ripert's menu is focused around seafood. I am personally one of those eaters who tends to be wary of seafood, particularly at very fancy restaurants, because (let's be honest) its usually really scary (think Sea Urchin Foam on Jellyfish). This is not the case at Le Bernardin. The emphasis is on showcasing pure, beautiful fish and shellfish by using the freshest, best quality ingredients and applying embellishment only as needed (rather than for show). The result is mouthwatering.

It is also extremely impressive, I might add, for a restaurant to focus exclusively on a single type of protein yet still have each course taste wildly different. At no point during the many courses of fish and shellfish did I think: "hmmm, more seafood, eh?"

This was accomplished through the use of flavors from diverse cuisines (think India, China, Japan, and so on) that were shaped and applied through the incomparable culinary techniques of France.

Each dish was different and exquisite, with many layers of flavor marrying together perfectly.

Example: our amuse bouche was a layered parfait of avocado (with a hint of spiciness), crab salad (with just the right touch of lemon), and potato foam (the balancing richness and sweetness). Taken together, the three (individually perfect) portions of the parfait created a fourth wonderful flavor.

We settled on the Le Bernardin Tasting Menu (7 courses) -- other options included a rather complicated set of choices off the regular dinner menu (4 courses) and a 9 course Chef's Tasting Menu.

After the amuse bouche we were treated to Kampachi Tartare, which was flavored (almost too strongly, in my opinion) with citrus and topped with marinated Japanese cucumbers. This was served with puffed rice crisps, which made a nice palate cleanser. This dish was beautiful but the citrus overpowered the raw tuna just a little bit.

The Kampachi was followed by a perfectly cooked Charred Octopus (they slowly braised the octopus and then gave it a quick sear on the grill) that was topped with a salsa of Fermented Black Beans. Tiny, delicate slices of white peach adorned the octopus as well and all was presented with a Sauce Vierge made of squid ink and miso Vinaigrette. This dish was gorgeous to look at and a true pleasure to eat. The octopus (so often the victim of overcooking) was done perfectly and the marriage of the black bean salsa with the sweetness of the peaches was genius.

Next we enjoyed a sourdough bread crusted Red Snapper. This was presented with three tiny timbales of zucchini-mint coriander compote and then, at the table, a rich curried citrus broth was poured around the fish.

This dish exhibited very subtle flavors (especially in comparison to the assertive flavors of the previous two dishes), but was no less delicious. The crust was the most crispy I have ever had and the fish was (of course), perfectly cooked. The zucchini-mint compote did not, quite honestly, add anything but color to the presentation, but the curried broth was complex and a wholly new flavor for the palate to enjoy in the progression of the tasting.

The second fish course consisted of of crispy Black Sea Bass perched atop braised celery and swimming in a sinfully good broth of essence of Iberico Ham, Brandy, and green peppercorns. A parsnip custard (rich and awesome with the leftover broth) was served as an accompaniment. There was some rather shameful sopping up of the sauce with bread once the fish and custard were gone -- it was too good to waste.

Then came one of the most amazing fish preparations I have ever had: Escolar (White Tuna) Poached in Extra Virgin Olive Oil, garnished with Sea Beans and Potato Crisps and drizzled with a light Red Wine Bearnaise sauce.

I cannot rave enough. The fish was delicate, tender, succulent, redolent of olive oil (should I go on?) and the bearnaise was so fabulous that I would dive into a barrel of it without a second thought.

Thus ended the savory, seafood courses (but not the tasting!).

As a sort of transition/palate cleanser we were served an artisan Fromage Blanc (produced exclusively for Le Bernardin by the Vermont Butter and Cheese company), with a coulis of local strawberries. This was like eating a tiny, unsweetened cheesecake with the brightest, freshest, strawberry sauce imaginable. Sid did not enjoy the tartness of the dish (preferring sweet with sweet and savory with savory), but I found it very enjoyable.

Our dessert course was the "Hazelnut": a hazelnut Gianduja Parfait served alongside a single, perfect slice of caramelized banana, and a Brown Butter Ice Cream.


And, if this wasn't enough, the kitchen sent out a White Chocolate Passionfruit cheesecake with passionfruit sorbet in special honor of our anniversary (an unexpected and very nice touch).

Dessert was followed by the usual parade of tiny treats -- little bites of tarts, puffs, and jellies, along with tea (and, of course, the bill).

We had skipped the wine pairing in favor of a single bottle to be enjoyed with all the courses. Unless you have a seriously high tolerance, I recommend going this route. It is lighter on the pocketbook but also keeps you from getting so drunk that you don't appreciate the edible art you are being so reverently served. Such carefully tended dishes deserve attention and respect from the diners.

I should also mention that the service here was very well done. A veritable army of servers tend to your needs during your meal (one for wine, one for ordering, one for serving, one for clearing, one for pulling your chair in and out when you get up to visit their beautifully appointed bathrooms, etc.). This can go horribly wrong at lesser restaurants, but the staff at Le Bernardin have it down cold. The dance of servers was flawless and they seemed genuinely happy to see our appreciation and enjoyment of the food. Though the service is certainly formal, it is not stuffy or snooty. The same can be said of the decor, which is beautiful and calming (lots of rich woods, bamboo framing, and beautiful flowers).

For a special evening, I can wholeheartedly endorse Le Bernardin.

Bon Appetit!

Sandwiches!

Working in Manhattan, you can either bring your lunch or pay an arm and a leg for lunch.  I take the former approach.  Bringing a sandwich to work every day can get a bit tiresome and boring.  I just found a site called Scanwiches that provides many mouth watering images of sandwiches along with their ingredients.  It can serve as a point of inspiration for those who might be feeling bored.  One that caught my eye is the homemade Pastrami, lettuce, swiss, mustard and mayo on a hero.  Be careful though, if you stare at that site too long, you'll get hungry!

FYI, today I've got some lemon chicken with arugula and mayonnaise on some gourmet white bread.  I'll try to post some of my more inventive sandwich recipes in the near future.

The Long Silence, Honduras, and Musings on Fried Food

Dear Readers,

I know it has been a long while since I've penned an entry here, and for that I apologize. As some of you know, I have been in Honduras for the last month running an archaeological field school (you can check out our blog here: http://www.padoarchaeology.blogspot.com/)

Given my long interlude south of the border, I thought I'd share some information with the interested reader on Honduran cuisine.

Honduran food is simple and revolves around corn (usually in the form of corn tortillas), beans (usually fried in shortening), and easy to store veggies (such as cabbage, cucumbers, avocados, and tomatoes). Unless hot sauce is added as a garnish, the food is, as a rule, not particularly spicy. Chicken is also a big staple. In fact, one of the most classic Honduran foods is....fried chicken. They marinate it in spices, dredge the pieces lightly in Maseca (corn flour), and then fry the hell out of them in shortening.



Typically served with fried green plantains or fried potatoes, cabbage, and sauce (usually katsup mixed with mayo), this is a dish you'll find served in most rural homes and local restaurants.

Another great Honduran dish featuring chicken (and a favorite of mine) is Tacos de Pollo.



Here the chicken is poached whole with garlic and onions, removed from the carcass, shredded, and mixed with a little tomato sauce, seasonings (commonly including cumin, consume de pollo, lots of salt, and achiote) and some sauted onions and peppers. This mixture is placed inside a homemade corn tortilla that has been colored and flavored with achiote paste. They are rolled and then deep fried. Typically these are served three to a plate with a topping of freshly shredded cabbage and lots of hot sauce.

Similar, but with a twist, are Honduran enchiladas.



These begin with fried corn tortillas enriched with achiote paste. They provide a base on which a mixture of ground beef cooked with spices, onions, and peppers and potatoes is layered. On top of this comes freshly shredded cabbage and a slice of fresh tomato. Sometimes a tomato sauce is spooned on top, sometimes just a dash of hot sauce. Radically different from enchiladas in the States, and (in my opinion) even better!

The other most common Honduran plate is called Plato Tipico (typical plate) and consists of homemade corn tortillas (made by mixing Maseca with water to create a dough, preparing balls of the dough to be flattened in a tortillera and then cooked on a hot comal), refried beans (red or black beans slowly cooked with garlic cloves, mashed, and then fried in plenty of shortening), fresh sliced avocado, and often fried sweet plantains. Garnished with crema (a classic Latin cream that is somewhere between cream cheese and sour cream) and hot sauce, plato tipico is so, so good. I brought a tortillera and comal home with me to attempt to recreate this goodness. After a few trials, I'll be sure to post recipes here.

So, that's a bit about Honduran food! Stay tuned for more reviews and recipes now that I'm back in New York!!

Bon Appetit!

Do you dream of Traveling to France for Cooking Classes?

On Rue Tatin West Vashon Island, WA
Two-day class August 20-21, 2009
Evening classes August 21 and 22

Dream of traveling to France to cook?

Well, this summer France is coming to you! Susan Herrmann Loomis of On Rue Tatin, internationally recognized chef and cookbook author, is coming to Vashon Island, WA to share her love of France and her expertise in French cooking through hands-on cooking
classes in the lovely home of Steve and Cindy Stockett on Vashon Island.

Don’t miss this chance as Susan guides you
in the preparation of authentic French dishes, using the finest local and seasonal
ingredients procured just for you. With her focus on French technique and her joy
in the kitchen, a good time will be had by all as you prepare, then sit down to enjoy,
your authentic French meal.

These very special classes, which includes special tastings, hands-on classes with meals and more is filling up quickly, so please enroll now.

Call toll free: 1.866.369.8073 or email: cookingclasses@onruetatin.com or sign up here
Cost is $500 USD per person per two day class (Aug 20-21); fee includes cooking
classes, instruction and multi-course meals, with cheeses and wines.
Also available - evening classes August 21 OR 22, $250 per person per class evening class with tastings, followed by a five course meal.

Menus for each class will be different, so if you’d like to sign up for all four, you'll learn something new each time!

As always, each class will focus on French technique, as well as the finest local ingredients. We will do tastings of specialty ingredients, and will taste both local and French wines, as well as artisanally made cheeses.


ABOUT SUSAN HERRMANN LOOMIS - As an internationally-recognized expert on food, journalist, and trained chef, Susan has a depth of knowledge and an appreciation for the rich traditions around food. Susan believes that learning about cooking and food should involve much more than recipes and techniques. She delights in meeting and introducing the personalities and customs behind the great cuisines of France, where she has lived for twenty years. Susan is the author of six cookbooks, the most
recent of which is Cooking at Home On Rue Tatin (William Morrow).

The Worst Restaurant in Park Slope?

Restaurant Name: Sotto Voce
Restaurant Location: 225 7th Avenue, Park Slope, Brooklyn

I usually like to post upbeat reviews of places I think worthy of visiting. However, I simply must express my distress about Sotto Voce. Before committing negative little finger-taps to the keyboard, I ate twice at Sotto Voce, just to be sure. I am now sure: this must be the worst restaurant in Park Slope. Yet - it is nearly always crowded. How can this be?

First, the bad: Sotto Voce has terrible service (rude, monosyllabic, indifferent), a filthy interior (think food on the floor, tables akimbo, things slopped onto the table, etc.), and truly terrible food (bland, tasteless, cold). I always try to look for the good things about a restaurant, but I honestly could not find anything positive about this horrible place.

But it never seems to run out of patrons, even as far superior places dwindle and go out of business. Why?

Well, sadly, I think this is because Sotto Voce long ago committed itself to embracing the twin principles of mediocrity and abundance. They ply you with all-you-can drink mimosas and dry, lifeless bread at brunch. They plop fat bowls of greasy pasta and better-made-at-home eggs before you. They let you loll about for hours, never taking your order or bringing your check, and they let your kids throw food on the floor, scream, and generally make a mess. In exchange, they feed you. And, at the end of the day, Sotto Voce proves that for many people, good food just doesn't matter.

It makes me sad that this places thrives while other more ambitious restaurants suffer and fail. But, as my dad always told, me: life just ain't fair.

In sum: if you value fresh, flavorful preparations (or, really, even warm ones) and desire at least moderately sentient service, avoid Sotto Voce like the plague.